‘One ingenious concept in terms of food making in the UK’ — How a tower of thorns makes salt

Blackthorn Salt, produced on Scotland’s rugged west coast using wind, sea and thorns, not only has impressive health benefits but is also a prime example of eco-friendly craftsmanship.

In a gothic-like scene on the west coast of Scotland, an imposing manmade wall of thorns stands tall. Majestic in both height and length, this structure isn’t an art piece or an ancient relic; it’s a tool for creating salt. Salt production has been a Scottish tradition for almost a thousand years, crucial for food preservation pre-refrigeration. Although Scotland’s coastal salt-making was once booming, it declined due to cheaper rock salt imports, leading to the last salt-pan closing in 1959.

Gregorie Marshall, a master salter, inspects the Blackthorn Salt tower, the only active salt-making tower in the world, situated by the Firth of Clyde. Credit: Blackthorn Salt

However, Gregorie and Whirly Marshall of Blackthorn Salt are reviving the area’s sea-salt industry. Their painstaking two-decade endeavour culminated in the opening of their business in 2020. Their method involves a graduation tower that channels sieved seawater down a maze of thorny branches, where the wind aids evaporation and leaves behind a concentrated brine ready for crystallization. This process, relying solely on wind and seawater, is eco-friendly and effective.

Constructed primarily from locally sourced larch and Douglas fir, and blackthorn bushes for the thorns, the tower is an engineering marvel that also benefits the local ecology, with acres of blackthorn planted nearby. These salt towers are reminiscent of old ones in Germany and Poland, traditionally used for their therapeutic saline air. Now, Scotland’s tower is the only one in the world still actively producing salt, and it does so without using any additional energy.

The end product: salt crystals from the tower boast a ‘crucial crunch factor’. Credit: Blackthorn Salt

The resulting salt is special for its high calcium levels, along with magnesium and potassium to provide a balanced flavour profile. Recognized for its high quality, this salt has garnered accolades and is used by numerous Michelin-starred restaurants. Celebrity chef James Martin even hailed it as a remarkable culinary item. Despite being a young venture, Blackthorn Salt has made quite an impact.

Mrs. Marshall advocates trying the salt on a tomato to experience its quality and the enhanced flavours it releases. The couple emphasizes their pride in producing the salt, meticulously crafted with only two people, no added chemicals, and sustainable packaging practices. Their passion for their product is clear and easy to appreciate.