Exploring the Remarkable Hotel That Made a Secluded Indonesian Island a Destination
Sumba is celebrated for its surfing, wild horses, and the prominent NIHI hotel. Our correspondent Emma Love set out to explore if the buzz around the island and its hotel truly lives up to expectations.
NIHI first brought attention to Sumba with its unique surfing opportunities. In the 80s, savvy surfers descended upon this Indonesian island for the waves at Occy’s Left, staying in simple lodgings by the beach. Today, the vibe has evolved to a luxury experience with 27 stunning villas that reflect the local style, featuring four-poster beds and dedicated ‘kaptens’ (butlers) who keep guests updated on sea conditions via WhatsApp. Yet, the original surfer ethos endures.
Being a guest here—amidst its vast 567 acres— is like being part of an exclusive, secret society with a fascinating mix of people, from biotech investors to fashion entrepreneurs, and even glamorous Hollywood celebrities. Meals at the Nio Beach Club offer a toes-in-the-sand experience with dishes like tempura soft shell crab and nasi goreng, while the Boathouse Bar provides cooling dragon fruit treats in the afternoons. Rescued horses lead a royal life at Sandalwood Stables, enjoying ocean baths and hillside grazes. Early risers may catch local fishers in their morning pursuits by the sea.
To visit the Nihioka Spa, guests must hike through rice paddies and local villages, where bringing sirih pinang (betelnut) or a pack of cigarettes as gifts is customary.
Sumba’s culture is deeply rooted in its secluded lifestyle and the ancient Marapu faith, which venerates the spirits of ancestors believed to inhabit the island. Anggi, a driver at the resort, explains that the tall roofs of their homes create a sacred space for these spirits. The hotel, founded in 1988 by Claude and Petra Graves, continues to celebrate the island’s natural beauty and traditions. The next notable opening will be Cap Karoso, a 67-room resort dedicated to food and sustainability, situated along the island’s unexplored, wild western edges.
Currently, NIHI, owned by Chris Burch and James McBride, enchants its visitors not only because of its beautiful private beach (famous for its wild horses) but also through the diverse experiences it offers, from sunset horseback rides to tranquil afternoons by the pool. The upcoming Wild Wellness program offers equine retreats, and a customisable Sumba 7 Detox regimen. The hotel shines with authenticity and soul in every aspect.
Best Time to Visit
The best time to explore Sumba is from May to October during the dry season. The rainy season is an option as well, though expect frequent rainfalls.
How to Reach
Sumba, significantly larger than Bali, has two key airports: Waingapu in the east and Tambolaka in the west. Most visitors prefer the latter due to proximity to NIHI and Cap Karoso. A cross-island drive may take about seven hours with taxi fares that can surpass flight costs. It’s advisable to plan your destination before booking flights. Sumba can also be accessed by ferries from neighbouring Sumbawa and Flores, but most opt for flights from Bali via Lion Air or Nam Air.
Scott Dunn provides a four-night stay at NIHI Sumba starting at £4,337 per person, including various amenities and tours of The Sumba Foundation’s projects.